Written by Claire Baldwin and Helen Reid
(Reuters) – Waste from at least 19 international brands, including Adidas and Walmart, is being used to fuel the kilns of a Cambodian brick factory, according to a report released on Monday by a local rights group, saying some workers It is said that he is not feeling well.
The report by the Cambodian Federation for Human Rights, commonly known by its French acronym LICADHO, is based on visits and interviews at 21 brick factories in Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh and neighboring Kandal province between April and September. . Along with current and former employees.
Consumer clothing waste, including branded fabrics, plastics, rubber and other materials, was found to be incinerated at seven factories. The factory reportedly incinerated clothing waste to save on fuel costs.
“Some workers reported that burning clothing waste caused headaches and respiratory illnesses, and others reported feeling particularly unwell during pregnancy,” the report states.
Several brands, including Primark and Lidl, said they were investigating the issue.
Burning clothing waste can release substances toxic to humans if combustion conditions are not carefully controlled, according to a 2020 internal study by the United Nations Development Program that measured emissions from garment factory incinerators in Cambodia. The ash can also contain high levels of contaminants. Reuters confirmed that clothing waste will be burned.
These toxic substances include carcinogenic dioxins, the report said. UNDP declined to comment on the report.
A separate 2018 report by British academics at Royal Holloway, University of London, found that clothing scraps contain toxic chemicals such as chlorine bleach, formaldehyde and ammonia, as well as those used in dyeing and printing processes. They often contain heavy metals, PVC, resin, etc.
Brick factory workers regularly report migraines, nosebleeds and other illnesses, according to a British report.
Brands named in the Licadho report include Adidas, C&A, LPP’s Crop and Sinsay, Disney, Gap, Old Navy, Athleta, Karbon, Kiabi, Lululemon Athletica, Lidl Stiftung & Co’s Lupilu, and Walmart’s No Boundaries. , Primark, Reebok and Sweaty Betty. , Tilley Endurables, Under Armor, Venus Fashion.
Adidas, which sources from 16 factories in Cambodia, said it had launched an investigation into whether waste was being diverted from approved disposal routes to brick kilns.
Adidas’ Cambodian environmental policy requires that all waste from apparel suppliers must be disposed of at fully regulated and air quality controlled, approved waste-to-energy plants or government-approved recycling centers. said the company.
Mr Riddle said he took the situation reported by LICADHO very seriously and had launched an investigation, but could not provide any further information.
LPP said it was unaware that its textile waste was being burned in brick kilns and had contacted the agency responsible for placing orders in Cambodia. LPP said it is planning an awareness day in early 2024 for its agents and factories in Cambodia, with a particular focus on waste management.
Primark, which sources from 20 factories in Cambodia, said it was looking into the matter. Sweaty Betty did not comment on specific findings, but said it works closely with suppliers to ensure full compliance with its environmental code of conduct.
Tilly Endurables said it was “very concerned” by the findings and only works with factories that passed the audit.
Tilly says the factories that manufacture their products are audited by Worldwide Responsible Production (WRAP) to ensure proper waste management in accordance with local laws and internationally recognized standards. Stated. Tilly said further investigation revealed that the factory uses a waste removal company licensed by the Cambodian Ministry of Environment and does not know what happens to the waste after it is collected.
Other brands did not immediately respond to Reuters’ requests for comment. WRAP, Cambodia’s Ministry of Environment, and waste collection company Salom Trading Company Limited did not respond to requests for comment.
(Reporting by Claire Baldwin and Helen Reid; Additional reporting by Catherine Masters.)